
Coffee from the east African country of Kenya is clearly one of the most universally admired of the contemporary single origins. It is one of the finest from eastern Africa and is greatly appreciated for its heady aroma, excellent medium body, bright acidity and nearly sweet fruity taste. As a matter of fact a hint of black current can sometimes be detected when brewed. The best grades of this single origin have very little bitterness and are very aromatic.
The wonderful flavor can be attributed to the rich volcanic soil found in the eastern highlands where it is grown between 4,500 and 6,000 feet above sea level. The rich, fertile red volcanic soil runs deep on the gently rounded slopes above great valleys ensuring good drainage. The mild climate with well distributed rainfall from 40" to 50" throughout the year also contributes to its fine quality.
The original plants weren't introduced to this African country, mainly a tea drinking nation, until 1900 by the British. Upon achieving independence the nation structured its special industry with amazing foresight. The country has maintained a technically sophisticated research establishment making use of the latest advances in fruit removal and drying. Small holders have also developed efficiently run cooperatives.
The Kenyan government has long recognized the great quality of the region's beans and through the Kenya Coffee Board applies strict guidelines to make sure the quality doesn't suffer. They also reward growers who grow the best beans. This country is one of the few in Africa to nearly exclusively produce Arabica varieties. By employing highly sophisticated methods in production, treatment and marketing the nation has maintained its rank as one of the top producers in the world. One of the keys to such success is the auction system in which the buyer offering the highest price for a given lot at the weekly government run auction receives that particular lot. Insider deals are prohibited. Though quite simple this transparent system tends to reward higher quality with higher prices.
This special varietal is mainly grown in an area stretching south from the slopes of 17,000 foot Mount Kenya nearly to Nairobi, the capital. A smaller growing region is found on the slopes of Mount Elgon bordering Uganda. Specialty stores tend to mainly sell beans from the central region of the mountain which is sometimes designated by the name of the capital city, Nairobi.
These highly prized beans are graded by size, shape and density. AA beans are the largest. The grades from largest to smallest are: AA, AB, PB C, E TT, and T. Size affects quality in that larger size beans usually contain more of the precious oils necessary for the distinct aroma and flavor. In addition to the grading system the Board also employs a class systems which is lesser known. The classes range from 1 through 10 with 1 being the highest.
Lately Kénya, as well as many other regions, has been criticized for introducing new hybrid varieties of coffea Arabica, like Ruiri 11, which successfully resist disease but, according to specialty buyers, lack the great taste of older hybrid varieties, such as SL28 and SL 34, which have been the mainstays of the region's coffee industry. A contributing factor to this concern is the many problems that the country's auction system and production in general have been suffering. Specialty buyers in particular fear that the current disarray could cause a diminishing or worse a failure of the excellent auction system resulting in lower quality.